Sewing machine for seaming and covering the edge portions of fabric sections



July 7, 1936. J. BERGER 2,046,933

SEWING MACHINE FOR SEAMING AND COVERING THE EDGE PORTIONS OF FABRICSECTIONS Filed Jan. 12, 1933 ll Sheets-Sheet 1 July 7, 1936. J. BERGER2,046,933

SEWING MACHINE FOR SEAMING AND COVERING THE EDGE PORTIONS OF FABRICSECTIONS Filed Jan. 12, 1953 11 Sheets-Sheet 2 July 7, 1936.

SEWING MACHINE FOR SEAMING AND COVERING THE EDGE PORTIONS OF FABRICSECTIONS Filed Jan. 12, 1933 J. BERGER 2,046,933

ll Sheets-Sheet 3 July 7, 1936. BERGER I 2,046,933

SEWING MACHINE FOR SEAMING AND COVERING THE EDGE PORTIONS OF FABRICSECTIONS 11 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed Jan. 12, 1955 I I J V lIl J. BERGERJuly 7, 1936.

SEWING MACHINE FOR SEAMING AND COVERING THE EDGE PORTIONS OF FABRICSECTIONS Filed Jan. 12, 1953 11 Sheets-Sheet 5 July 7, 1936.

J. BERGER 2,046,933-

SEWING MACHINE FOR SEAMING AND COVERING THE EDGE PORTIONS OF FABRICSECTIONS Filed Jan. 12,1953

lilllll l1 Sheets-Sheet 6 m Amman hmfi J. BERGER 2,046,933

SEWING MACHINE FOR SEAMING AND COVERING THE EDGE PORTIONS OF FABRICSECTIONS July 7, 1936.

ll Sheets-Sheet 7 Filed Jan. 12, 1933 Alluvial-4:

July 7, 1936.

J. BERGER SEWING MACHINE FOR SEAMING AND COVERING THE EDGE PORTIONS OFFABRIC SECTIONS Filed Jan.- 12, 1935 11 Sheets-Sheet 8' July 7, 1936.

J. BERGER 2,046,933

SEWING MACHINE FOR SEAMING AND COVERING THE EDGE PORTIONS OF FABRICSECTIONS Filed Jan. 12, 1953 11 Sheets-Sheet 9 J. BERGER SEWING MACHINEFOR SEAMING AND COVERING THE EDGE PORTIONS OF FABRIC SECTIONS llSheets-Sheet 10 swam tom awm s July 7, 1936. J. BERGER 2,046,933

SEWING MACHINE FOR SEAMING AND COVERING THE EDGE PORTIONS OF FABRICSECTIONS Filed Jan. 12, 1935 ll Sheets-Sheet l1 Patented July 7, 1936UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SEWING MACHINE FOR SEAIVIING -AND' COVERINGTHE EDGE PORTIONS F FABRIC SECTIONS corporation of Illinois ApplicationJanuary 12,

so'onims.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in a sewing machinewhich joins the upturned edge portionsof fabric sections and covers thesame to form a flat seam.

An object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above typewherein the edge portions which have been joined by through and throughstitches may be turned down prior to the covering of the same withcovering stitches. v A further object of the invention is to provide amachine of the above type with trimming devices located in advance ofthe through and through stitching mechanism for trimming the edgespreparatory to the joining of the same and the turning of the edgeportions down for covering.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of theabove type wherein the through and through stitch forming mech- 20 anismand the trimming devices may rise and fall during the stitchingoperation to accommodate varying thicknesses, and for stitching thefabric sections a uniform distance from the trimmed edges.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine: of theabove type wherein there is a presser foot associated with eachstitching mechanism, and said presser feet are mounted so that the frontfoot cooperating with 30 the through and through stitchingmechanism mayyield independently of the rear foot, and wherein the stitchingmechanism for forming the through and through stitches will yield withthe associated presser foot.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of theabove type wherein the-presser foot cooperating with the through andthrough stitch forming mechanism is provided with a channel or groove inits under face 40 for directing the upturned edge portions of the fabricsections, and wherein the wall' of the groove opposite the side of thefabric penetrated by the needle serves as a work supporting member;

'A ,still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of theabove type wherein the presser foot' associated with the coveringA-jStill further objecttof theinvention is t0 1933, Serial No. 6511A25provide a machine of the above type wherein the covering stitching forms.a twin needle stitch so disposed that the looper thread covers theturned down edge portions, and wherein means is associated with thestitching mechanism for supporting the needle threads for chaining ofibetween stitched articles.

-These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part behereinafter more fully described.

In the drawings which show by way of illustration one embodiment of theinvention- Figure 1 is a view from the front side of the work supportingarm showing a machine embodying the improvements with certain coverplates removed to show the structure of the machine;

Fig. 2 is a view of the machine as viewed from the end of the worksupport, with the hand wheel removed and the cap for the front end ofthe work support also removed;

Fig. 3 is a plan view of a portion of the ma chine showing the end ofthe work support, the needle head, the parts mounted thereon and theactuating mechanism for operating the parts on the needle head;

Fig. 4 is a sectional view substantially on the line :ra: of Fig. 2,certain of the operating members being omitted for the sake ofcle'arness;

Fig. 4a is a view showing more or less'diagrammatically the operatingparts for the looper with the arm and link in alinement and the looperat the forward end of its stroke at a dwell;

Fig. 4b is a similar view' showing in broken lines the extent ofmovement of the link and arm past dead center and in full lines theposiless diagrammatically the'u'nder needle 'operatl ing mechanism, thethroat plate, the presser feet and the manner of supporting the same,also showing certain parts'of the looper operating devices;

Fig. 6 is an enlargedvertical' sectional view through the work supportand the parts im'me diatelyabove the sameat the linefof the through iand through stitching mechanism; i

Fig. 6a is a view showing more or lessdiaf grammatically the-looper" andthe needle mar the looper at the *forward end of its stroke;

Fig. '7'is aviewtaken' from the rwr side "of the 1 work. supporting armshowing the support and operating means for the front looper, also thesupport and operating means for the movable trimming blade, also showingthe means for giving the needle avoiding movement to. the looper;

Fig. 7a. is a sectional view on the line l -I of Fig. '7;

Fig. 8 is a plan view of the presser foot associated with the coveringstitching mechanism and also showing the chaining off mechanism;

Fig. 9 is a bottom plan view of the same;

Fig. 10 is a sectional view on the line 11-11 of Fig. 8;

Fig. 11 is a sectional view through the forward looper support andshowing the connection between the same and the means which imparts theneedle avoiding movement to the looper, and at the same time permits thelooper to move up and down with the forward presser foot;

Fig. 12 is a top plan view of the front presser foot;

Fig. 13 is a bottom plan view of the presser foot;

Fig. 14 is a view showing in bottom plan the two presser feet, andshowing in broken lines the path of travel of the edge portions as theyare trimmed, stitched together and turned down for covering the same;

Fig. 14a. is a front view of the rear presser foot;

Fig. 15 is a plan view of the throat plate;

Fig. 16 is a sectional view through the rear presser foot and throughthe crosshead for reciprocating the loop supporting finger and showingsome of the parts adjacent the same;

Fig. 1'7 is a view in side elevation showing the actuating parts forreciprocating the stitch finger or wire, and also the thread controlsfor the front needle;

Fig. 18 is a view showing diagrammatically and in transverse section thefabric sections after they have been joined by the through and throughstitches and prior to the turning down of the edge portions;

Fig. 19 is a similar view showing the edge portions as covered by thetwin needle covering stitches;

Fig. 20 is a view showing diagrammatically in side elevation the needleand looper at the time when the looper point is entering the needlethread loop;

Fig. 21 is a similar view showing the parts in plan view;

Fig. 22 is a view showing the looper and needle in side elevation at thetime when the needle point is entering the thread triangle;

Fig. 23is a similar view in plan of the same;

and

-Fig. 24 is a diagrammatic view showing the operation of the threadcontrolling devices for the thread of the through and through stitchingneedle.

The invention as shown, is embodied in a sewing machine having a worksupporting arm off from the end of which the fabric sections are fed asthe edge portions thereof are trimmed, joined and covered. The fabricsections to be joined are fed beneath a presser foot with the edgeportions thereof upturned. The presser foot holds the fabric sections onthe work supporting arm and guides the same to the trimming deviceswhich trim said upturned edge portions. The trimmed edge portions arethen presented to a through and through stitching mechwith the presserfoot as to move up and down I therewith under varying thicknesses offabric passing beneath the presser foot. The presser foot has a grooveextending all the way through the bottom surface thereof for directingthe upturned edge portions, and the wall of the groove on the oppositeside of the fabric sections entered by the needle serves as a supportfor the material being stitched. There is a rear presser foot which ismounted independent of the front presser foot, and this rear presserfoot has a vanishing groove at the forward end thereof, one wall ofwhich is in line with the work supporting wall of the front foot, and isshaped so as to turn down the edge portions after they have been joinedby the through and through stitches flat against one of the fabricsections. Associated with the rear presser foot is a stitch formingmechanism which includes two needles mounted beneath a throat plate andmovable up through the fabric sections at opposite sides of the turneddown edge portions. Cooperating with these two needles is a threadcarrying looper which connects the needle thread loops by looper threadloops which form the covering for the turned down edge portions.Associated with the rear presser foot is a loop supporting finger orwire over which the needle thread between successive needle punctures islaid by the feed of the fabric. This finger is withdrawn during eachstitch formation and operates as a supporting means for the needlethread loops to insure stitch formation where there is no fabric sectionbeing stitched and permits chaining off between fabric sections. It isbelieved that the invention will be better understood by a more detaildescription of the illustrated embodiment thereof.

The machine to which the invention is applied is of the type shown inthe Christensen and LeVesconte Patent No. 1,741,095, granted December24, 1929. It will be apparent, however, that the improved stitch formingmechanism may be used in connection with other types of machines. Only aportion of the machine is shown, as the actuating shaft and the feedingmechanism are of the type disclosed in the patent referred to. Saidmachine includes a supporting standard or bracket I having anoverhanging portion carrying a horizontal member 2 in which is located amain actuating shaft 3. Said shaft is operated by a belt wheel 4 withwhich is associated a hand wheel 5. Suspended from this upper horizontalmember 2 is a work supporting arm 5 which is provided with the usualfeeding mechanism including a feed dog I which is disposed so as to feedthe material being stitched off from the end of the work supporting arm.This feed dog 1 is given the usual four motions so as to engage thefabric and impart thereto a feeding movement.

The material being stitched is supported on this work supporting arm 6.The work supporting arm carries a throat plate 8, which is shown Cal inplan view in Fig. 15. The throat plate is provided with feed slots 9through which the feed dog operates for the feeding of the fabric. Saidthroat plate is secured to the work supporting arm by suitable screws,two of which are shown at l0, II) in Fig. l of the drawings. The throatplate extends beyond the end of the work supporting arm 6 and forms thefabric supporting means. Said throat plate has a raised portioncentrally thereof as indicated at II in Figures 6 and 15. The portionsat each side of this centrally raised portion ll incline downwardly awaytherefrom. This is for aiding in directing the fabric sections with theedge portions thereof upturned. The fabric portions to be stitched areplaced on opposite sides of the work supporting arm and are broughttogether over the top thereof with their edge portions flat against eachother, as clearly shown in Fig. 6 of the drawings, where the fabricsections are indicated at F and F, and the upturned portions areindicated at f and ,f. The portion. of the feed dog directly beneaththis part of the throat plate having these inclined faces meeting at thecenter of the throat plate, are likewise inclined so as to engage thefabric both at the sides and adjacent the center of the throat plate.

The fabric sections are held on the throat plate by a presser foot it.The presser foot H has a central groove or recess l3 extending all theway through the presser foot from front to rear thereof, and opening atthe under side of the foot. The walls of the presser foot at each sideof this recess i3 are inclined outwardly and downwardly to conform tothe shaping of the throat plate so that the fabric sections with theupturned edge portions guided through the groove or recess i3 will befirmly clamped either against the throat plateor the feed dog as thestitching takes place.

This presser foot 112 is provided with a supporting lug M which isclamped to a bracket portion I5 attached to the lower end of a presserbar it. A leaf spring i'i bears on a lug I8 attached to the upper end ofthis presser bar. This provides a yielding support for the presser footso that it may rise and fall with the varying thicknesses of the fabricsections incident to cross seams or the like. The throat plate is rigidand the presser foot is a yielding member which not only rises andfalls, as stated, but which can be lifted from the fabric sections whenit is desired to remove the same from the machine or to insert newfabric sections for stitching.

The upturned fabric sections are first presented to a trimming mechanismwhich includes a stationary trimming blade I9 attached to the presserfoot by a clamping plate 20, and a clamping bolt 2|. The recess orgroove '13 in the presser foot extends all the way through the foot-asshown in Fig.1'13, in'theregion of the, trimming devices and in frontthereof Coop- 1 erating with this'stat'ionary trimming blade I9 is amovable trimming blade 22.

251has asleeve 28 surrounding therear presser pending' armM securedbyscrews 32, 32tola colla'r 33 which-is clamped to the presser bar:

21.11 011 spring 3l surrounding'the presser 'bar The movable 1 trimmingblade 22 is clamped to a head 23 carried by "an arm 24"havin'g"aribbedconnection toa-yoke member 25'. The yoke member 50."- willoscillate the needle.

2'! bears on the upper end of the yoke sleeve and yieldingly forces themovable cutting blade downwardly against the stationary shearing bladewith which it cooperates. Said movable blade has the usual projectingfinger or tongue which overlies the stationary blade and contactstherewith throughout the entire trimming operation. The presser foot iscut away to provide proper clearance. for the operation of the movablecutting blade. Mounted on the presser foot is a strip deflector 35 whichis shown as moved to inoperative position in Fig. 1. This stripdeflector normally extends across the slot in the presser foot anddeflects the trimmed off edges away from the stitching mechanism.Inasmuch as the movable cutting blade is yieldingly pressed downward bythe spring 3%, and the downwardmovement is limited by the stationaryblade carried by the presser foot, the trimming mechanism will rise andfall with the presser foot. The raised portion on the throat plateterminates just at the rear of the trimming blades and the upturned edgeportions after they are trimmed pass on through the groove in thepresser foot and beneath the lug portion it which supports the presserfoot.

The yoke member 25 carries a ball stud 36. A link 37! engages said ballstud on the yoke and also engages a ball stud 33 attached to an arm 39carried by a sleeve M. This sleeve fill also carries an arm ii providedwith a ball stud M to which is attached an eccentric strap t3cooperating with an eccentric on the main actuating shaft. As the mainactuating shaft rotates, it will, through this train of mechanism,impart oscillations to the yoke member and the movable trimming bladecarried thereby.

sections will be guided along said wall, and the needle, which is acurved needle, oscillates, entering the fabric sections from the left,as viewed in Fig. 6. The needle 45 is clamped to an arm 46 by a suitableclamping means, and this arm is in turn clamped to a supporting sleevemounted for oscillation on a bearing stud 41.

I Also attached to this sleeve is an arm 48 carrying a ball stud 49 towhich a link 50 is attached.

The link 50 hasa' forked connection at its other end with an arm 5|rigidly attached toa shaft 52. ,The'shaft 52 carries an arm 53 provided]with a ball stud to which a link 54 is connected.

Thelink 54 is connected at its up'per endto a.

ball on the endo'ffia stud 55 which is adjustablehead and carries insideof the needle head a lever 59. i This lever '59has a forkede'nd. 60carryi'n'g a pinto whichla link 6i isfconnectedzj The link 6| cooperateswitha crankYGZ formeddn the a main actuatingtshaft'. the rnainshaft m-..tates, it will oscillate the shaft 58, which-inturn oscillates theshaft52, and this, through the link This bearing stud 41 on which the needlelever oscillates is carried by the bracket I 5 which supports thepresser foot I2. The needle is, therefore, supported on the presser barI6 and can move up and down with this presser foot. The needle is aneye-pointed needle of the usual type. After it passes through the fabricsections it throws out a needle loop at the side thereof which isentered by the thread carrying looper 63. Said thread carrying looper 63is curved so as to lie in a plane parallel with the path or the plane inwhich the needle oscillates. The looper has a shank portion 64 extendingat right angles to the plane of the looper, and this shank portionextends into the sleeve 65 carrying a collar 66 which is clamped to theend of a looper supporting shaft 61. This looper supporting shaft 61 ismounted in an extension I5 of the bracket I5. This extension is providedwith projecting arms carrying spaced bearing sleeves I5 and I5 (see Fig.7). On the opposite end of the looper supporting shaft 61 is an arm 68carrying a ball stud 69. A link Ill cooperates with this ball stud andalso engages a ball stud II carried by an arm I2 mounted on a shaft I2supported in a bearing sleeve I3 carried by a bracket I4 which is boltedto the main standard or bracket I of the machine. The shaft 52 is alsojournaled in bearing sleeves I I and 14' formed in this bracket I4.Located between these bearings sleeves I4 and I I is an arm 15 which isattached to the shaft 52. There are two arms 15 extending out from thesleeve attached to the shaft 52, and a link I6 is connected to a pinbetween these two arms 15. This link I6 is also connected to the forkedend ll of an arm attached to the shaft I2 This imparts an oscillation tothe shaft I2 and in turn, through the link, will oscillate the loopershaft, imparting to the looper oscillating movements into and out of theneedle thread loop. As shown in full lines in Fig. 4b, the arms I5, 15are at an acute angle to each other and the looper is at the rear end ofits stroke. As shown in Fig. 4a, the arms and the link have moved intoalinement, and the looper is about to reach the end of its forwardstroke. The arms and the link move slightly past dead center to thebroken line position in Fig. 4b, and this is what gives a dwell to thelooper at the forward end of its stroke.

The looper supporting shaft is moved endwise by means of an arm I8freely mounted on the looper shaft and located between the collars 19and which are fixed to the looper supporting shaft 61. This arm 18engages a sleeve BI attached to a yoke 82. The yoke 82 is fixed to a rod83. Said yoke is made in two parts and includes a sleeve I32 and also asleeve 82*. These two sleeves are mounted on the rod 83 (see Fig. 7),and are connected by a bar 82 which is integral with sleeve 82* andbolted to the sleeve 92. This rod is mounted for reciprocation in abearing 84 carried by a bracket 85 which is secured to the needle headby bolts 86 (see Fig. 1). Said bracket 85 has a depending forked arm 81which straddles the bearing sleeve I 5 in which the looper shaft 61 ismounted for oscillation and endwise movement. The bearing sleeve hasfiat sides, and is free to rise and fall in the fork of this arm 81. Astrut 88 is attached to the forked arm 81 and is also connected to a pin89 which is attached to the bracket I4.

Mounted on the yoke 82 is a ball stud 90. A

' ing shaft 3.

link 9| is connected to said ball stud, which in turn is connected to aball stud 92 carried by an arm at the lower end of a vertical shaftmounted in bearing sleeves 93 and 94 carried by a bracket 95 which isbolted to the frame of the machine. The sleeve 40 is freely mounted onthis shaft and oscillates thereon. There is an arm 96 attached to theupper end of the shaft which carries a ball stud 9I cooperating with aneccentric strap 98 which in turn cooperates with an eccentric on themain actuat- As the main actuating shaft ro tates, it will, through thislink 9I, move the yoke 82 back and forth, and the yoke, throughconnection to the arm I8 will move the looper shaft endwise, thus givingto the looper its needle avoiding movement. The shaft 61 carrying thelooper, can, however, move up and down with the presser foot, at whichtime the arm I8 will slide up or down in the sleeve 8|. This provides ameans for positively oscillating the looper shaft, and for positivelymoving it endwise, and at the same time permitting the looper shaft tomove up and down with the presser foot. The needle, in its oscillationsis moved up and down with the presser foot, and this up and downmovement of the looper shaft will maintain the proper cooperativeposition between the looper and the needle.

As has already been noted, the looper is mounted for oscillation in avertical plane, the same as the needle. The center of oscillation of thelooper is, as noted in Fig. 6, well to the right of the extreme innerposition of the point of the needle, and also located close to theextended needle path, and as a consequence, the looper will cross thepath of the needle substantially at right angles thereto. The operationof the needle and looper in the forming of a stitch will be possiblybetter understood from the diagrammatic views shown in Figures 20 to 23.In Figures 20 and 21, the needle has moved to the forward end of itsstroke, and is retracted slightly, so as to throw out its needle threadloop. This is accomplished in the usual manner. The needle thread isindicated at n. The looper point is just about to enter this needlethread loop. The looper moves into a needle thread loop and to the endof its stroke, where it comes to a dwell. When the looper is at theforward end of its stroke, it is positioned so that the upper facethereof inclines upwardly away from the point of the looper. As aresult, the needle thread loop, due to the tension on the loop, willslide up on the looper, which will raise the loop sufiiciently so thatthe needle on its next stroke can. pass beneath .the loop. The looper,while at a dwell, is given its needle avoiding movement, and this willcarry the needle thread loop over the needle and across the needle tothe opposite side thereof, while the looper thread itself, indicated atI, will be laid beneath the needle path and extend across the plane ofoscillation of the needle. The needle will, therefore, enter the threadtriangle formed by the needle thread loop, the looper thread and thebody of the looper. It will be noted that the looper has very littlelateral movement, and therefore, the entire stitching elements take upvery little room lengthwise of the feed. enables the stitch formingmechanism to be placed close to the trimmers.

In Fig. 18, the fabric sections indicated at F and F, have the upturnededge portions 1 and j trimmed, and a line of stitching s has been Thistrimmer yoke oscillates on this sleeve Illl.

formed through these upturned edge portions by the needle 45 and thelooper 53 which cooperates therewith. The next step in a flat seamformation is to turn the joined edge portions and 1' into a horizontalposition flat against one of the fabric sections. In Fig. 19, these edgeportions are shown turned down against the fabric section F. In order tocover these edge portions, a twin needle stitch forming mechanism isused including two needles and a looper cooperating with both needles.One of the needles forms needle loops s through the fabric section F,

while the other needle forms needle thread loops '3 through the fabricsection F.

The looper thread 1' joins these needle thread loops s and s and thelooper thread loops cover and tie down the edge portions, thus producinga flat seam, as shown in Fig. 19. i

The next feature in the machine is the means for turning the edgeportion flat against the fabric section F. This is accomplished by therear presser foot, which is shown in detail in Figures 8 to 10. The rearpresser foot includes a body portion 99 which is attached to the presserbar 21. Said body portion has fabric engaging sections IIIIL-IIIII (seeFig. 9). These fabric engaging sections are spaced from each other andlocated between the same is a yielding foot section IN. This yieldingfoot section I III is carried by a supporting post IIIZ which slidesfreely in a sleeve bearing formed in the body portion 99. Said postcarries a pin I03 which engages a slot in the body portion 99 and thisprevents the foot portion from turning. A spring Int coiled about a studI05 engages the foot portion MI and yieldingly presses the samedownward. The pin Illii limits the downward movement of 'the footportion. A screw IflIi threaded into the body portion bears against theend of the screw and serves as a means for varying the spring pressureof the foot against the fabric.

The foot portion IdI extends from a point directly in rear of the frontpresser foot I2, as shown in Figures 1 and 5, to the rear of the presserfoot sections I00. The front portion of this foot IIII is broader andextends all the way across the sections Illll, IIW, while the rearportion is narrower and lies between said sections Mill, Hill.

The front ends of the sections I00, I00 are curved upwardly so that thefoot will ride easily over a cross seam. This foot is carried by thepresser bar 21, and a leaf spring located in the needle head bears onthe sleeve 30 which is attached to the presser bar 21, and thisyieldingly holds the foot pressed against the fabric.

The presser bar 2] has a reduced section at its lower end extendingthroughthe-sleeve 26 attached to the yoke operating the trimmer. Thebracket I5 has' a sleeve IIII attached thereto which ektends up into thesleeve '26 so that the There is a shoulder in the presser bar 2'I whichlimits the downward movement of the presser bar 271 relative to thebracket I5. The rear presser foot is secured to the presser bar 21 by ascrew I08. The foot is attached to the bar at a slight distance beneaththe bracket I5. There is a washer I09 surrounding the bar and lying onthe presser foot shank. This allows a limited movement of the rear footup and down through the action of varying thicknesses of fabric beneaththe same, which movement is independent of any up and down movementsimparted to the front presser foot, trimmer and front stitchingmechanism. The presser bar 21 is raised by a hand lever IW (see Fig. 2)which is connected through a train of mechanism with the bar within theneedle head. When the presser foot is lifted, the washer I09 contactingwith the bracket I5 will lift the bracket I5, and the front presserfoot, so that by the single lever, both of the presser feet may beraised from engagement with the fabric for permitting the changing ofthe fabric. At the same time, the rear presser foot has this independentyielding movement.

The rear presser foot is provided with needle slots III, III, betweenwhich is a tongue IIZ overwhich the looper thread loop is laid. Thelooper thread loops joining the needle thread loops will pass off fromthe rear end of the stitch tongue. In the'under face of the fabricengaging portion MI is a groove or recess II3. This groove, as shown inFigures 9 and 14, has a substantially vertical wall II I which is inalinement with the wall in the front foot opposite the fabric supportingwall I3 The wall of the rear foot at the opposite side and upper side ofthe groove II3 is curved as indicated at IIS and vanishes into thebottom of the foot with the wall IM, and this Wallis so shaped asreceive the upturned edge portions passing off from the vertical fabricsupporting wall I3 and turns the same down into horizontal position justas they reach the needle slots II I, III, or the region of stitchformation of the cover seaming mechanism. The slot, as shown, terminatesslightly in rear of these needle openings III, but insures that the edgeportions are turned down flat before the region is reached where thestitches are drawn taut.

The throat plate 8 is provided with needle slots H6, H6, and with a feedslot III which extends between the needle slots. This operates on thefabric sections directly beneath the turned down portions, and insures aproper feeding of the same beneath the rear presser foot. The presserfoot is substantially flat or horizontal in the region of the rearpresser foot. The raised portion II terminates substantially at the rearend of the front presser foot so as to allow the seam to be fiat withthe edge portions turned flat against one of the fabric sections whenthe covering stitching mechanism functions.

The covering stitching mechanism includes two needles H8 and IIQ. Theseneedles are both clamped to a needle head IN. The needle head I20 has agroove in the side face thereof for the needle Md, and the needle isheld in the groove by a clamping member I2I. There is a similar grooveand clamping member on the opposite side of the needle head I20 for theneedle IIIl. This needle head is carried by a lever member I22 which ismounted for oscillation on a stud I23. This stud is fixed to a rod I24functioning as a needle bar. The lever I22 is pivoted at I25 to a studcarried by the throat plate 8. As the rod or needle bar IN reciprocates,it will cause the lever I22 to oscillate about the stud I25 and thiswill in turn cause the needles to move up through the fabric sections.-The needles pass up through the needle openings H6, H6 in the throatplate, then through the fabric sections, and then through the needleslots III in the rear presser foot. The needles are curved and areeye-pointed, and each is provided with a thread. It will be noted thatthe needles pass through the fabric sections in substantially a verticaldirection, but each needle moves in a path curving toward the horizontalwithin the work arm so that the needles can be mounted in a relativelysmall work arm and have the necessary stroke given thereto for thepenetrating of the fabric and the stitch formation. The rod or needlebar I24 is rigidly connected to a link I26 which in turn is pivoted atI21 to a rod I28 reciprocating in a slot I29. The rod I28 is connectedby a link I30 to a rock lever I3I. Said rock lever is pivoted at I32 tothe frame, and carries a ball stud I33 which in turn is connected to alink I34 engaging at its upper end a ball stud I35 carried by a crank onthe main actuating shaft 3. The rod I28 reciprocates in a right line ina sleeve I29 and imparts an endwise movement to the link I26 which inturn reciprocates the rod or needle bar I24 and causes the needles tooscillate in the manner described above. The link I26 is provided withright and left-hand threads so that it may be lengthened or shortenedfor varying the oscillating position of the needles.

Cooperating with the needles above the presser foot is a looper 136. Thelooper is a thread carrying looper and will first pass into the needlethread loop formed by the needle H8 and then into the needle thread loopformed by the needle II9. This looper is oscillated back and forth in avertical plane, substantially at right angles to the line of feed. Thelooper is also given a needle avoiding movement so that after the looperhas entered the needle thread loops, it moves laterally and positionsthe thread triangles for the respective needles to enter. This stitchforming mechanism is the well-known twin needle stitch formingmechanism, and further description of the stitch formation is notthought necessary.

The looper I36 oscillates in a vertical plane and is provided with ashank I31 which extends at right angles to said plane of oscillation.The shank I31 is clamped in the end of an arm I38 carried by a sleeveI39. This sleeve I39 is mounted for oscillation and endwise movement ona supporting rod I40 carried by a depending member I formed integralwith the bracket 85. Said sleeve I39 has attached thereto a pro- Jectingarm I42 carrying a ball stud to which a link I43 is connected. The linkI43 at its other end is attached to a ball stud I44 mounted foradjustment in a slot I45 carried by an arm I46 which is fixed to theshaft 58. As the shaft 58 oscillates, it will, through the link l43,impart oscillations to the sleeve I39 and to the looper I36. This linkI43 is connected to a ball stud at each end and this permits the sleeveI39 to move endwise of the rod I40 as well as to oscillate on said rod.Fixed to the end of the rod 83 is an arm I41. This arm is provided witha collar I48 (see Fig. 1) which engages the extension I 39 of the sleeveI39 (see Fig. 2). On the end of this extension is clamped a collar I49.The arm I46 moves laterally with the endwise movements of the rod 83 andthis will shift the sleeve I39 endwise on the rod I40, at the same timepermitting the sleeve to oscillate. The rod 83, as has been describedabove, is utilized for giving lateral movements to the looper whichcooperates with the front needle. It likewise gives the lateralmovements to this looper cooperating with the rear needles. The rearlooper has no up and down movement relative to the rear presser foot,

but moves in a fixed path relative to the needle head.

In order to provide a means for forming stitches when there is no fabricin the machine, a stitch finger or wire I50 has been provided (seeFigures 8 and 9). This finger is mounted for reciprocation in apassageway formed in the fabric engaging member IOI of the rear presserfoot. It passes across the slots alongside of the stitch tongue H2 andthrough the stitch finger. The stitch finger I50 moves in a path atright angles to the line of feed. It is in this forward position asshown in Fig. 9 when the needles penetrate the fabric, and after thelooper has entered the needle thread loops, so as to hold the same, thenthe stitch finger or wire I50 is quickly retracted. At this time theneedles are withdrawn from the fabric and the feed takes place. As

-the looper retracts and the needles move up to penetrate the fabric,the stitch finger is quickly projected forward and remains across theslots during the rising of the needles. If there is no fabric in themachine, then the needle thread between consecutive stitches, as theneedles rise, will be laid over this finger or wire I50. It takes theplace of the fabric and supports the needle thread loops. Otherwise,there would be no means for anchoring the needle thread loops and noloop would beformed which the looper could enter. It is retracted, asnoted above, so as to permit the feed after the loop formation has beeneffected. The purpose of this finger or wire I50 is solely to insurestitch formations when there is no fabric in the machine, and th: 3permits the chaining between fabric sections. This chaining means inconnection with a twin needle stitch forming mechanism may be used inother types of machines, and with any twin needle stitching mechanism,and is not limited in its use to the particular type of machine shown,or in combination with the particular features described.

The stitch finger or wire I50 is fixed to a crosshead I5I mounted forreciprocation on two rods I52 and I53 which are rigidly carried by theyielding fabric engaging portion IOI of the rear presser foot. Theserods, of course, move up and down with the yielding section of thepresser foot, and also with the presser foot as a whole. The crossheadI5I has an upstanding rib I54 which engages between spaced ribs on amember I55. This member I55 is clamped to the end of a rod I56 byclamping screws I51. Extending laterally from the body portion of thepresser foot is an arm I58 which is in the form of a sleeve, and in thissleeve the rod I56 is mounted for endwise reciprocation. There is a slotI59 in one side of the arm which leads to the inner recess thereof, anda stud I60 is threaded into the rod I56 and projects out through theslot I58. A link I6I is connected to the stud and at its outer end ispivoted to an arm I62 attached to a short shaft I63. This shaft carriesan arm I64 which is pivoted at its upper end to a link I65, and the linkI65 in turn is pivoted to a stud I66 carried by a sleeve I61 whichslides freely on the presser bar I6. The sleeve I61 is provided with alug I68 to which a short link I69 is connected. The upper end of thislink I69 is in turn attached to an arm I10 fixed to the shaft 58. As theshaft 58 oscillates, it will move the sleeve I61 up and down on thepresser bar, and this will oscillate the' arm I62 and impart endwisemovement to the crosshead carrying the stitch finger or wire I 50. Itwill be noted from 7 it is quickly retracted to permit the thread loopsscribed.

the thread eye lit.

laid over the same during chaining to be released and the feed of thesame to take place.

The thread controlling mechanism has been provided for the needle 65.This thread controlling mechanism includes a thread guide. l' which isattached to the frame of the machine so that it may be adjustedvertically. Mounted on the shaft M3 for movement with the arm Nil is awire H2 having a thread guiding hook H3. The needle thread indicated atn passes through the thread guide ill and the thread guiding hook H3. Italso passes through an eye I'll on a bracket i115 attached to the armllll. As shown diagrammatically in Fig. 24, the bracket H5 is shown infull lines at its extreme lowest position and in broken lines at itsextreme upper position. It will be noted that the wire llZ moves towardand from the thread guide Hi. It moves toward the thread guide when thebracket H5 is moving to its extreme upper position, so that while saidthread eye formed in the bracket H5 is taking up on the thread, thethread guiding hook H3 is giving up a certain amount of thread, and thiswill reduce, to a certain extent, the amount of thread that is taken up.The purpose is to utilize this arm Hill which has a relatively longstroke for taking up an amount of thread which is slightly less thanwould normally be taken up by the movement of These parts are so timedthat when this thread eye ll l reaches the upper end of its stroke, theneedle is retracted from the fabric, the feed is taking place, and thestitch is being set.

It is thoughtthat the operation of the machine will, be obvious from thedescription which has been given in detail of the mechanisms whichcooperate to produce the flat seam de- The edge portions are upturnedand trimmed and then passed to the stitching mechanism which joins theedge portions. This stitching mechanism, which includes a needle andlooper, is so mounted that it can move up and down with the presser footwith which it is associated. Likewise, the trimming devices which trimthe edges move up and down with the presser foot so that this -line ofstitching which joins the fabric sections will always be placed in thefabric sections a given distance from the trimmed edges, regardless ofcross scams or varying thicknesses in the fabric, which mayraise orlower the position of the presser foot. After the edges are joined, theypass beneath the second presser foot which has a receiving groove orrecess shaped so as to turn down the joined edges flat against one ofthe fabric sections. While passing beneath this foot, two needles passup through the fabric sections beneath the work support, and the threadcarrying looper above the fabric sections cooperates with the needlesfor interlocking the needle thread loops in the looper thread loop whichcovers the turned down edge portions. In order that this stitchingmechanism may function to chain off between articles, a thread finger isprovided which moves through the presser foot and the stitch finger andis timed so that the needle threads are laid across this finger by thefeed and support the thread so that loops may be formed for the looperto enter. After the thread loops are enchained, then the stitch fingeris retracted so as to permit said enchained thread loops to be fed.

It is obvious that many changes may be made in the stitch formingdevices and. the parts associated therewith, and also in the specificstructures used in connection with each of the various mechanismsdescribed without departing from the spirit of the invention as setforth in the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters- Patent, is-

1. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism, astitch forming mechanism for joining the edge portions of fabricsections, means for turning down both of the joined edge portions fiatagainst one of the fabric sections and a second stitch forming mechanismfor covering and securing the turned down edge portions to the fabricsections by covering stitches passed through the respective fabricsections at each side of the turned down edge portions and adjacent thesame.

2. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism, astitch forming mechanism for joining the edge portions of fabricsections, means for turning down both of the joined edge portions fiatagainst one of the fabric sections, and a two-needle stitch formingmechanism for passing needle thread loops through the respective fabricsections at each side of the turned down edge portions and adjacent thesame and for joining said needle thread loops with a thread for coveringsaid turned down edge portions.

3. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism, astitch forming mechanism for joining the edge portions of fabricsections, means for turning down both of the joined edge portions flatagainst one of the fabric sections, and a two-needle stitch formingmechanism for passing needle thread loops upwardly through therespective fabric sections at each side of the turned down portions andadjacent the same and for locking said needle thread loops with thelooper thread which covers and secures the turned down edge portions tothe fabric sections.

4. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism,stitch forming mechanism for joining ,the edge portions of fabricsections, means for trimming the edge portions of fabric sections anddirecting the same to said stitch forming mechanism, means for turningdown both of the joined edge portions fiat against one of the fabricsections, and a second stitch forming mechanism for covering andsecuring the turned down edge portions to the fabric sections bycovering stitches passed through the respective fabric sections at eachside of the turned down edge portions and adjacent the same. a

5. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism,stitch forming mechanism for joining the edge portions of fabricsections, means for trimming the edge portions of fabric sections anddirecting the same to said stitch forming mechanism, means for turningdown both of the joined edge portions flat against one of the fabricsections, and

a two-needle stitch forming mechanism for passing needle thread loopsthrough the respective fabric sections at each side of the turned downedge portions and adjacent the same and joining the same with a coveringthread for covering and securing the turned down edge portions to thefabric sections.

6. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism,stitch forming mechanism for joining the edge portions of fabricsections, means for trimming the edge portions of fabric sections anddirecting the same to said stitch forming mechanism, means for turningdown both of the joined edge portions flat against one of the fabricsections, and a two-needle stitch forming mechanism for passing needlethread loops upwardly through the respective fabric sections at eachside of the turned down edge portions and adjacent the same and forlocking said needle thread loops by looper thread loops which cover andsecure the edge portions to the fabric sections.

'7. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism, apresser foot cooperating with said feeding mechanism for directing theupturned edge portions of fabric sections, a stitch forming mechanismfor joining the upturned edge portions including a needle and a looper,a second presser foot cooperating with said feeding mechanism and havingmeans for turning down both of the joined edge portions fiat against oneof the fabric sections, and a second stitch forming mechanism forcovering and securing the turned down edge portions by covering stitchespassed through the respective fabric sections at each side of the turneddown edge portions and adjacent the same.

8. A sewing machine comprising a. work support, a feeding mechanism, apresser foot cooperating with said feeding mechanism for directing theupturned edge portions of fabric sections, a stitch forming mechanismfor joining the upturned edge portions including a needle and a looper,a second presser foot cooperating with said feeding mechanism and havingmeans for turning down both of the joined edge portions flat against oneof the fabric sections, and a twoneedle stitch forming mechanismincluding needles mounted beneath the work support for carrying needlethread loops up through the respective fabric sections at each side ofthe turned down edge portions and adjacent the same, and a loopermounted above the work support and cooperating with said needles forcovering and securing the turned down edge portions to the fabricsections.

9. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism, apresser foot cooperating with said feeding mechanism for directing theupturned edge portions of fabric sections, a stitch forming mechanismfor joining the upturned edge portions including a needle and a looper,a second presser foot cooperating with said feeding mechanism and havingmeans for turning down both of the joined edge portions fiat against oneof the fabric sections, and a two-needle stitch forming mechanismincluding needles mounted beneath the work support and operating to passneedle thread loops up through the fabric sections at each side of theturned. down edge portions, a thread carrying looper mounted above thework support and cooperating with both needles for covering and securingthe turned down edge portions to the fabric sections, and meanscooperating with said twoneedle stitch forming mechanism for supportingthe needle threads so that enchained thread loops may be formed therebywhen there is no fabric to be stitched.

10. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism, apresser foot cooperating with said feeding mechanism and having a slotfor directing the upturned edge portions of fabric sections, a throatplate having inclined meeting surfaces disposed relative to the slot inthe presser foot so as to direct the edge portions of the fabricsections through said slot with said edge portions contacting with oneof the walls of said slot, a stitch forming mechanism including aneedle, operating to penetrate the fabric sections while in engagementwith the wall of the slot, a looper cooperating with said needle, meansfor turning down both of the joined edge portions flat against one ofthe fabric sections, and a second stitch forming mechanism disposedrelative to the turned down edge portions so as to form coveringstitches passing through the respective fabric sections adjacent theturned down edge portions and overlying the same.

11. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism, apresser foot cooperating with said feeding mechanism and having a slotfor directing the upturned edge portions of fabric sections, a throatplate having inclined meeting surfaces disposed relative to the slot inthe presser foot so as to direct the edge portions of the fabricsections through said slot with said edge portions contacting with oneof the walls of said slot, a stitch forming mechanism including aneedle, operating to penetrate the fabric sections while in engagementwith the wall of the slot, a looper cooperating with said needle, atrimming mechanism operating in advance of the needle for trimming theupturned edge portions, means for turning down both of the joined edgeportions flat against one of the fabric sections, and a. second stitchforming mechanism disposed relative to the turned down edge portions soas to form covering stitches passing through the respective fabricsections adjacent the turned down edge portions and overlying the same.

12. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism, apresser foot cooperating with said feeding mechanism and having a slotfor directing the upturned edge portions of fabric sections, a throatplate having inclined meeting surfaces disposed relative to the slot inthe presser foot so as to direct the edge portions of the fabricsections through said slot with said edge portions contacting with oneof the walls of said slot, a stitch forming mechanism including a needleoperating to penetrate the fabric sections while in engagement with thewall of the slot, a looper cooperating with said needle, and means forsupporting said presser foot, needle and looper whereby said presserfoot, needle and looper may rise and fall with varying thicknesses ofmaterial and the stitch forming devices operate in a predeterminedposition relative to the presser foot for all positions thereof.

13. A sewing machine comprising a work support, a feeding mechanism, apresser foot cooperating with said feeding mechanism and having a slotfor directing the upturned edge portions of fabric sections, a throatplate having inclined meeting surfaces disposed relative to the slot inthe presser foot so as to direct the edge portions of the fabricsections through said slot with said edge portions contacting with oneof the walls of said slot, a stitch forming mechanism including aneedle, operating to penetrate the fabric sections while in engagementwith the wall of the slot, a looper cooperating with said needle, atrimming mechanism operating in advance of the needle for trimming theupturned edge portions, and means for supporting the trimming mechanism,the stitch forming mechanism and the presser foot whereby the presserfoot, trimming mechanism and stitch forming mechannism may rise and fallwith varying thicknesses of the fabric and the stitch forming mechanismand trimming mechanism will operate in a predetermined position relativeto the presser foot for all positions thereof.

14. A sewing machine comprising a work supporting arm, a feedingmechanism including a feed dog for feeding the material off from the endof the work supporting arm, a presser foot cooperating with said feedingmechanism and work support for directing the upturned edge portions offabric sections, a stitch forming mechanism including a needle movablethrough the fabric sections in substantially a horizontal line, a threadcarrying looper cooperating with said needle, said presser foot beingmounted so as to move up and down with varying thicknesses of fabric,and said needle and looper being mounted so as to move with the presserfoot and operate on said fabric sections in a predetermined positionrelative thereto for all positions of the presser foot, means forturning down both of the joined edge portions flat against one of thefabric sections, and a second stitch forming mechanism disposed relativeto the turned down edge portions so as to form covering stitches passingthrough the respective fabric sections adjacent the turned down edgeportions and overlying the same.

15. A sewing machine comprising a work supporting arm, a feedingmechanism for feeding fabric sections off from the end of said am, apresser foot having a slot for directing upturned edge portions offabric sections, a stitch forming mechanism including a curved needlemounted for oscillation about an axis located directly above the edgeportions of the fabric sections, a thread carrying looper cooperatingwith said needle and mounted for oscillation about an axis parallel withthe axis of the needle above the needle path and so that the loopercrosses the path of the needle substantially at right angles whenentering the needle thread loop, means for oscillating said looper, andmeans for giving to said looper a lateral needle avoiding movement.

16. A'sewing machine comprising a work supporting arm, a feedingmechanism for feeding fabric sections off from the end of said am, apresser foot having a slot for directing upturned edge portions offabric sections, a stitch forming mechanism including a curved needlemounted for oscillation about an axis located directly above the edgeportions of the fabric sections, a curved thread carrying looper mountedfor oscillation about an axis parallel with the axis of the needle andlocated above and adjacent the needle path whereby said looper whenentering the needle thread loop crosses the path of the needlesubstantially at right angles, and whereby the curvature of the looperwill cause the needle thread loop to slide upwardly thereon during theformation of the thread triangle so that the needle may pass beneath theneedle thread loop as it enters said triangle, means for oscillatingsaid looper, and means for giving to said looper a lateral needleavoiding movement.

17. A sewing machine comprising a work supporting arm, a feedingmechanism for feeding 5 fabric sections 011 from the end of said arm, apresser foot having a slot for directing upturned edge portions offabric sections, a stitch forming mechanism including a curved needlemounted for oscillation about an axis located di- 10 rectly above theedge portions of the fabric sections, a curved thread carrying loopermounted for oscillation about an axisparallel with the axis of theneedle and located above and adjacent the needle path whereby saidlooper when 16 entering the needle thread loop moves from a point aboveto a point below the path of the needle and substantially at rightangles and whereby the curvature of the looper will cause the needlethread loop to slide upwardly there- 20 on during the formation of thethread triangle so that the needle may pass beneath the needle threadloop as it enters said triangle, and means for oscillating said looperand giving thereto a dwell at the forward end of its stroke.

18. A sewing machine comprising a work supporting arm, a feedingmechanism for feeding fabric sections off from the end of said arm, apresser foot having a slot for directing upturned edge portions offabric sections, a stitch forming mechanism including a curved needlemounted for oscillation about an axis located directly above the edgeportions of the fabric sections, a thread carrying looper cooperatingwith said needle and mounted for oscillation about an axis above theneedle path and so that the looper crosses the path of the needlesubstantially at right angles when entering the needle thread loop,means for oscillating said looper, means for giving to said looper aneedle avoiding movement, means for supporting said presser foot wherebyit may move up and down with the fabric, said needle and said looperbeing carried by the supporting means. for the presser foot so as tomove up and down therewith, means for 5 turning down both of the Joinededge portions fiat against one of the fabric sections, and a secondstitch forming mechanism disposed relative to the turned down edgeportions so as to form covering stitches passing through the respective5 fabric sections adjacent the turned down edge portions and overlyingthe same.

' 19. A sewing machine including in combination a work support, afeeding mechanism, a presser foot for directing the upturned edgeportions of 5 fabric sections, stitch forming mechanism associatedtherewith for joining said edge portions including a needle movable insubstantially a horizontal direction through the fabric sections,- athread carrying looper cooperating therewith, 69 means for oscillatingthe needle, means for oscillating the looper, a second stitch formingmechanism in rear of the first-named stitch forming mechanism andoperating to cover the joined edges of the fabric sections, said secondstitch forming mechanism including two needles mounted beneath the worksupport and movable upwardly through the fabric sections, a threadcarrying looper cooperating with said needles, means for oscillatingsaid thread carrying 70 looper, and common means for giving to thelooper associated with the first stitch forming mechanism and the looperassociated with the second stitch forming mechanism a lateral needleavoiding movement. 7 5

30. A sewing machine including in combination

